Vertical Gain Hiking: 3,500 feet Guidebooks Numerous popular climbing guidebooks are available for learning about routes and peaks in the park. Shuksan. Fisher Chimneys- 7/18/16. Additional parking can be found across the street in the Park & Ride lot. Turn left onto F & S Grade Road, From State Highway 20 East, at the traffic circle, take the 2nd exit onto Cook Road (after the Walgreens), Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi) updates, images, or resources. If there is no trail or designated camp, always look for rock, snow, or bare ground to travel or pitch camp. We used both ropes in a caterpillar manner for the ridge climb. Shuksan. more information on current conditions Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Shuksan is one of the most photographed mountains in the world. If there is a trail, use iteven if it means taking the 37 switchbacks instead of heading straight to your climb. Turn left onto F&S Grade Road. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine . We left Seattle about 5:30. am, to ensure that were the first people at the ranger station for Price XC. A deposit of $500.00 is due at the time of registration to reserve a space on the course. Tax ID: 27-3009280. so I decided to grab the permit and make Fisher . The mountain has become an icon for climbers in the northwest with its rugged beauty and rich mountaineering history. Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount find out current ranger station hours, phone number, and location for the backcountry and climbing information station for the park. This is a popular trail for backpacking, camping, and hiking, but you can still enjoy some solitude during quieter times of day. Take a walk before dinner and find a scenic site far from your camp area to cook and wash up. On each day, we will encourage you to eat at regular, short maintenance breaks, roughly once every hour. All balances are due 120 days prior to climb start date and can be paid by check, wire transfer, or by credit card with a surcharge of 3%. We generally arrive back at our cars by early afternoon and conclude our adventure in Sedro-Woolley. We hopped on the snow and continued un-roped to the base of Winnies Slide. Dont bury your waste in snowit melts out in a few days, looking just the same. WA to pick-up permits. Mt. Since departures require a minimum number of participants, Northwest Alpine Guides must adhere to a stringent refund policy. If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibilityfor any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. Note:Pack basic medical supplies in a compact package. Helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. The fog was still quite thick, and the combination of exertion and humidity had us all soaked. We set up our tents near the toe of the White Salmon Glacier at 6,700 feet. Depends on, Priority for the Everett basic students others open up on July 1st . All scheduled programs can also be booked with custom dates and itineraries. The mountains feature steep rugged glacially sculpted rocky mountain peaks with the most expansive glacial system in the contiguous United States. Snow North Face AI2-3 Mod. These items are required for our Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneyclimb. However, excellent weather and generous trip planning made this a very successful outing with abundant learning opportunities. Then I pulled the rope for them, packed up the picket anchor and downclimbed Hells Highway while they reconfigured the rope for glacier travel down below. Joe making his way up the ridge. No trip planning is complete until you consider the most important element of any climb: returning safely and without injury. A two-day ascent of Mount Shuksan (9,131') via the Fisher Chimneys on August 16, 2020. Although food must still be stored securely from wildlife, canisters are not required for camping or bivying on glaciers or on high routes along ridge lines. These trips are low ratio, small group expeditions led by some of the most experienced guides in the business. Itinerary Notes Participants age 15: May only participate in private climbs and must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian. Cold drinking water will be available in high camp. Lodging in Burlington and Sedro-Woolley, Washington. 9384 Old Hwy 99 North Plan to depart the day after the climb ends. Mt. From the summit, we enjoy views of the glaciers beneath us on Shuksans north face, and the serrated peaks of the North Cascades. The summit pyramid has an option for a 5th class trad climb via the Southeast Rib. The drive to Lake Ann Trailhead at 4,700 feet takes approximately two hours. Approximately 2.5 miles from the trailhead is a signed . Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284, Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Burlington Please visit the online Gear Shop for a list of available merchandise and to pre-purchase items. In recent years, many climbers have noticed and complained, with bitterness touched by sadness, about the myriad of fluttering flags found along many, many routes in the North Cascades. Please prepare your meals prior to your climb. This route is the one most often seen on photographs of Lake Ann and Shuksan. The final push up the summit pyramid by the Southeast Ridge added some excitement for our climbers! Engineering. We started Saturday afternoon and headed to lake Ann to make camp. Permit Areas; Google Calendar; Publications; Climb Routes; Navigation Resources; About Us Membership Icon of an X inside a circle. Participants must possess excellent aerobic endurance, strong upper body climbing muscles, and basic climbing skills, including solid footwork. Mt Shuksan - Fisher Chimney's + SE Ridge. Although I started out with 4 people, life and work chipped away at each persons schedule so by the time the first weekend in August came around we had not yet gotten to do our practical snow skills. We ask that you consult your travel insurance carrier directly with questions. Take I-5 North towards Burlington to Cook Road in Skagit County. However, excellent weather and generous trip planning made this a very successful outing with abundant learning opportunities. The mountain's name Shuksan is derived from the Lummi word, said to mean "high peak". This is a difficult one way trail to Mount Shuksan in Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. Video Resource: What to Expect the Morning of the Climb. A couple parties came through the upper Bivy, including some climbing rangers who did their usual permit checks. They are also illegal in all crosscountry zones. The mountain's name Shuksan comes from the Native American (Lummi tribe) word qsn, which means "high peak". The glaciers in route to your objective are watershed to major spillways feeding the highest degree of flora biodiversity of any American national park. There are composting toilets at climbing areas in Boston Basin and the Sulphide Glacier on Mt. Heavyweight insulated leather/synthetic/hybrid mountaineering boots are required for early season and late-summer climbs on Mount Shuksan. If you must leave a piece of webbing during a rappel, remove one or more of the ratty slings already in place, and use a natural color webbing that will not be visible from a distance. September 2017. Baker. From the top of the Slide, moderate climbing across three glaciers (White Salmon, Upper Curtis and Sulphide) leads to the foot of the summit pyramid, which we ascend via a 3rd class scramble up the central gully, or 5th class rock climbing on the pyramids Southeast Ridge. Lou Whittaker first climbed Denali in 1960, marking the 12th ascent of the mountain. You should be able to hike/climb for 1 to 2 hours at a time, punctuated by 10 minute breaks, for up to 12 hours. We do not accept participants under 15 years old due to insurance and liability reasons. Education Get all the details on our educational programs, including our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), Wilderness First Aid (WFA), and much more. Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boots and Crampons guides for recommendations. Read our Four-Legged Stool blog post for tips on finding the right adventure for you. Close Menu. The Mountaineers teaches skills and leads outdoor activities for all ages and levels in the Pacific Northwest. Unbeknownst to us, some class 3 sections lay ahead of us. We cannot overstate how critical it is for you to bring foods that you enjoy eating. Join Us on a 4 Day Mt. Our initial plan was to camp at the bottom of Winnie's slide but the ranger station put an end to that saying all permits for the Price glacier area were gone for the weekend. If I would have known, I would have brough a new one. Traverse across a large talus field, gaining about 100 ft, to a gully on the far side. At the bottom of the gully pick up the trail to Lake Ann. Flagging and webbing are trash, too Climb. Heather and huckleberry are woody species whose stems break under the weight of boots, packs, or tents. When registering for a trip within . This offering is a perfect graduation from mountaineering into alpinism and offers stunning views of the Puget Sound. There was no boot pack to the SE ridge so I had to somewhat guess where it started. Joe coming down the first rappel from just below the summit. Northwest Alpine Guides is an authorized outfitter guide service withinNorth Cascades National Park. How do you deal with human waste? updates, images and resources. Click here for directions Moving more slowly can be dangerous. Tail end of the milky way over Mt. The North Cascades Permit boundary is clearly marked after Lake Ann. Weather can be severe in the North Cascades. With an adventure sport like mountaineering, safety is paramount. I listed Rob as the alternate trip leader on the permit since he would have an easier time skipping out of work early on Friday to make it to the ranger station in time to grab the permit. They are dedicated to a climbing lifestyle, and collectively have climbed throughout the earths major mountain ranges. We take privacy seriously. As we headed downhill into the darkness, the flies seemed to dissipate, and we made good time to Lake Ann. It wasnt late, so we had some time to decide. Helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. We have no idea if we were lucky or if there were several remaining permits left behind. The Guide Hut offers a selection of mountaineering equipment and clothing for purchase and rent. Trail may be snow covered in early season. Mount Shuksan via the Fischer Chimneys Approach. I don't think many people did Fisher Chimneys and SE Ridge as their first ever alpine climb, let alone first time literally climbing anything at all in Rob's case. Photo from Joe. It switchbacks, crosses two gullys, and becomes obscure just before the entrance of the first chimney. Our guides will instruct the desired skills needed to climb a glacier to the summit. Day Mt Shuksan Fisher Chimneys 4 Day Itinerary Day 1 At 8 am on Day 1, the team will meet at the Glacier Ranger Station. 1. Bladders may pop and hydration hoses freeze in the cold. Youll save yourself energy and youll protect the wilderness. updates, images, or resources. Authorized guide services If you are just learning to climb or are looking to expand your mountaineering skills, a guided course or class might be right for you. I ran into the bathroom. Led by guides Zeb Blais and Brandon Seymore, the climb went smoothly with fit climbers, excellent weather and great route conditions. It was somewhat difficult to find good spots, most of the great ones were already taken but we each had packed small bivy tents so we were each able to find somewhere tuck ourselves into for the night. For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance. This put my summit time goal 9am. Elevation Gain: 7600 ft. . There are a few extremely popular routes on Mt. Never bury waste in snow, throw it in a crevasse, or smear it near your route or camp. Day 3: Descend the Fisher Chimneys, hike out. Day 1: Lunch & snacks for hike from trailhead to high camp, Dinner Climb the gully past two class 3-4 steps and short traverses and up a longer, straight section. Fires are a pleasurable, old-fashioned pastime but they are not necessary for cooking or warmth. A view from Lake Ann approach trail 2. Climbing Time: 7-9 hours. Times: 2-3 hr trailhead to camp, 7-8 hr camp to summit. Photo Daniel Bynum. An unlikely series of moderate features breach Shuksan's sheer Southwest Face, yielding access to the upper glaciers and summit pyramid where climbers navigate through a maze of rock and ice to a spectacular . Climbing boots must be full shank and crampon compatible. Northwest Alpine Guides does not insure you against these risks. The combination of the other party and eventually our own pace resulted in us being at the summit around 11am; I hadnt imagined being so close to our turnaround time. Distance: 13.7 mi. Rob's trial by fire scrambling with an overnight pack on his first day climbing a mountain. July 15, 2019 Mount Shuksan / Fisher Chimneys Route Trail from Lake Ann TH to Lake Ann is snow free except a small snowpatch just before the lake. North Cascades Mountain Guides is among the few companies fortunate enough to be allowed to guide trips to the summit of Mount Rainier. . ), Trailhead parking fees (Northwest Forest Pass), Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Optional Cancel for Any Reason coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Small personal first-aid kit with medications and blister kit. The traditional name of Mount Shuksan in the Nooksack language is Shqsan ("high foot") or Ch'sqen ("golden eagle") Climbing this mountain can be a significant challenge, especially taking the route that we did. COPYRIGHT 2014-2022 THE MOUNTAIN BUREAU. Watch for rockfall in the chimneys and take special care on the summit pyramid gully because of loose rock and multiple parties. It is not open to the public, and does not serve customers outside of scheduled operating hours. These snacks can be critical for maintaining a steady supply of energy while moving up and down the mountain. Fisher Chimneys or North Face Climbs. For your safety and the safety of your rope team, you mustbe able to maintain the pace set by our guideswhile maintaining reserves of strength. Drive I-5 to Bellingham. Note: Proper hardshell rain gear is required on all trips. The above photo shows Shuksan on the left and Baker on the right. Me signing the rapidly disintegrating summit register. Camped at Ann lake. about 7:40 and were the first car in the parking lot. This will help reduce smells and animal visits to your camp. You should have a foundation in basic rock climbing, including solid footwork and upper body strength. The 50/60m double rope setup reached the '3rd' rap station no problem. Single-use passes are $5.00 per day. We will get your pack to a comfortable weight and have time to answer any questions you may have.Day 1 - Travel to the trailhead, near Artist Point at 4,600, in the heart of the North Cascades. Video Resource: Mountain Snack and Lunch Ideas. It was Robs first time ever rappelling on a real mountain. The Fisher Chimneys of Mount Shuksan draws climbers seeking a dynamic, variable route entailing a variety of features. The approach to high camp via hiking and easy rock climbing in a series of chimneys takes 6 hours. Permits also allow for a variable level of solitude and a high quality climbing experience, with less crowding on routes, and less impacts such as human waste, trampling, or garbage at camping locations. The Mountain Bureau LLC operates under Special Use Permits with the Mt. Or, walk-up permits can be obtained for free from any park ranger station in-person just before your climb, if sites are available, on a last-minute basis. June 27-28. Itinerary is approximate and subject to change. But most people stick to one of three routes, the Sulphide Glacier, the Fisher Chimneys or the North Face. I knew that physical endurance wouldn't be an issue, we had all the gear, and the weather was going to be acceptable at a minimum. We reached the Sulphide glacier just as morning twilight was beginning. Location: South side of Mount Hood. Mountaineers Books is a registered trademark of The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. Considering Rob and Joe had spent over 13 hours doing a very large list of firsts on a tough mountaineering route, I knew that trying to force everyone to solo downclimb the entire chimney section wasnt going to be a great idea. However, while browsing rec.gov I noticed that previously unavailable permits for Price XC zone on Shuksan had become available, probably a cancellation due to the weekend only having a 2-day window of splitter weather. This is not a blanket requirement for the entire park or for all portions of these zones, and was purposely limited, after two years of internal review and public comment, to areas of high use by both humans and wildlife, where wildlife has become habituated to getting human food, and other methods of food storage were ineffective, improper, or impossible. Aug 3. Turn around when conditions or common sense tell you to do so. permits. Care for the trees (and flowers and meadows) The last pitch was long, and I hit the end of the 50m rope I was on; however by the time I got to the end it was just class 3 so I put a micro-traxion on a piece near the top and had Rob, who was belaying me, just start climbing to make it the last 15-20 feet to the top anchor. But the reality is that there are several more interesting lines and variations on the peak. The HMG camera holster bag worked really well, I had it rigged up with some carabiners, a cord directly to the camera and a bag strap so there were a couple redundant points to prevent the camera from going free - which actually came into play once, saving the rig from smashing on the rocks and/or rolling off the mountain. Wildflowers blooming. Shuksans Fisher Chimneys Route and summit pyramid. The NWAG office does not coordinate ridesharing or carpooling and we are unable to share customer or guide contact information due to privacy concerns. Even strong runners may struggle to carry a heavy pack over steep, uneven terrain for hours at a time. Mt. We descend our climbing route back to high camp and enjoy a relaxing afternoon. Sedro-Woolley, They offer big mountain terrain in an unbelievable setting. Travel insurance offers the best protection in the event of a sudden, unexpected illness, an injury prior to or while traveling, or a possible family emergency. Limited services are available in Sedro-Woolley. The Guide Hut offers a selection of mountaineering equipment and clothing for purchase and rent. I got him on belay, had him remove the micro-traxion when he got to it, and then bring up Joe. Prophet, to name a few. Off Trail but can't complain about the dramatic view hiking over the Lower Curtis glacier. We are a committed equal opportunity outdoor recreation service provider. Baker and Fisher Chimneys on Mt. Of course, this would all add up to more time, so I planned to give ourselves every chance at success by leaving Friday early from work and hiking to Lake Ann that night to give us a full 48 hours to get from Lake Ann to high camp, the summit and back to the cars. After a short time, we began the descent. Glacier navigation was straightforward, a couple obvious turns required on the Upper Curtis but nothing we couldn't see from a very safe distance. After getting both of them set up with extended rappels, I would rap with coils to get the ropes down to the next station and set up. Both the popularity and rockfall risk on this climb can create dangerous situations. A backcountry permit is required year-round for all overnight trips within the park complex, climbs included. We busted out the stoves and had a hot lunch at the lower bivy section while we waited for the occupying party to come down. Note: CamelBaks and other bladder-style hydration systems may be used in addition to two water bottles, but are not sufficient. The Fisher Chimneys route has it all. Jul. Ascend Hell's Highway then the Sulphide Glacier to the base of the summit pyramid, which can be climbed by the right skyline or by a gully up the center (exposed class 4, 600 ft). Mount Shuksan's West Face during Winter. Mount Shuksan/Fisher Chimneys. Close Fisher Chimneys 3 Day Ascent. The team will return to camp, pack up, followed by a full decent to the trailhead; 8.7 Miles, +3,100 Elevation Gain, -6,900 Elevation Loss, 12+ Hours Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack Weight, Reserved Permit for Backcountry Sulphide Zone, Overnight camping accommodations on the first night of your trip, All breakfasts and dinners on the mountain, Overnight accommodations on the last night of your trip, No previous mountaineering experience requiredModerate to strenuous trekking and climbing at elevations above 8,000Travel over moderate glacial terrainRock Scrambling in boots or cramponsAbility to carrying a heavy pack (35-to-40 lbs)Overnight camping in tents. Log in and send us Burlington, WA 98233, La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham Burlington Shuksan Fisher Chimneys Climb. The Fisher Chimneys portion of the climb ascend the imposing West face of the mountain, skirting the . The trail descends onto a ridge then turns right and enters a gully. Meeting locations may vary depending on program destination. Baker and Mt. Photo courtesy of Joe. Above Fisher Chimneys. My Tarptent ProTrail Li has never been that easy to set up but perfectly, but it was great for this trip; light, well ventilated and with a compact footprint. Trip: Mount Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys Trip Date: 08/04/2019 Trip Report: . Mt. Many areas of the park are remote and seldom visited, with few or no current conditions reports. Upon receiving your registration, Northwest Alpine Guides will email you complete PreClimb information, including a gear list specific to your itinerary and other departure details. Log in and send us When you must cross a vegetated area, spread out so that all your footsteps dont crush the same plant. Take SR-542 past the Mount Baker Ski Area as far as the road goes depending on the time of year. Traverse for about 70 ft, then turn left up a side gully 100 ft to where the route tops out on the ridge. Little did I know that we would use every second of it. Mountain Tactical Institute. Where can one go to explore and test ones limits and skills when others have left such copious markers of human presence? We got to the Lake Ann trailhead a bit after sunset, welcomed by swarms of biting flies. It weaves through a steep and exposed chimney system on the Shuksan Arm, briefly touches the top of White Salmon Glacier, up a steep snow slope, across the dramatic Upper Curtis Glacier, up a second steep step to the Sulphide Glacier and finishes at the 3/4th class . The North Cascades are a climber's playground. Location: Mount ShuksanRatio: 2:1 climber to guide (max. Reservations for these climbs can be made before May 31. Out of all of the ruggedly beautiful, non-volcanic mountains in the Pacific Northwest, Mt. No matter if you have never climbed before, our instructors are prepared to help you learn mountaineering from the ground up. Backcountry permits are designed to prevent over-crowding at some sites and to disperse visitors throughout the park at a rate which is less damaging to wilderness resources such as native vegetation, soils, and wildlife. Hike south on Lake Ann Trail over Austin Pass (4,700 ft). The Mountain Bureau will never share or sell your information. Although food must still be stored securely from wildlife, canisters are not required for camping or bivying on glaciers or on high routes along ridge lines. Artemiza, Amber, and Kristen were led by Forrest and Eve on one of the most beautiful mountains and climbs in the Pacific Northwest. Backpacks smaller than 65 liters are not acceptable. Click to read general Frequently Asked Questions, 425.749.7421 Four 15-minute snack breaks on the ascent from high camp to summit, two or three 15-minute snack breaks on the descent from summit to high camp. Northwest Alpine Guides makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. This short traverse from the end of the ropes to the final rap station was not that difficult though. Here are a few details of our successful summit climb of Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys. One waste kit per 1-3 days is typically sufficient. Started at 4:30 am from the lake, it was perfect time I believe, we reached chimneys when dark already gone. From June 1 to November 15, allowed hard-sided food canisters are required for camping below the vegetation line in Boston Basin, Eldorado, and Sulphide Glacier cross-country zones. Shuksan. A Grading permit with fee, plans signed and sealed by an engineer, and an Escrow Account are . Rockfall is a concern in the chimneys. I also had never led a complex alpine route or led anything glaciated before. 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